The 13-Button Pants Story: A Deep Dive into US Navy Uniform History

Photo Credit: Underwood Archives / Getty Images (Colorized & Enhanced by DeepAI)
Photo Credit: Underwood Archives / Getty Images (Colorized & Enhanced by DeepAI)

Navies around the world uphold a variety of age-old traditions, many of which have been preserved for centuries despite their somewhat mysterious origins. Among these, the 13-button trousers worn by US Navy sailors are particularly notable due to their well-recorded history. While primarily functional, these trousers are also believed to hold symbolic importance, as suggested by different interpretations.

‘Crackerjacks’

US Navy sailors peeling potatoes on the deck of the USS Arkansas (BB-33)
Photo Credit: Buyenlarge / Getty Images

In the early 1800s, the US Navy brought in 13-button bellbottom trousers, affectionately known as “Crackerjacks,” with practicality as their main focus. The flared legs were designed to be easily rolled up during strenuous tasks, offering sailors a handy convenience. Moreover, this flared style allowed for swift removal if a sailor went overboard, eliminating the need to remove their shoes. This was crucial, as it prevented the heavy, water-soaked wool from dragging sailors down underwater.

There are other theories

US Navy sailors crowded into a small boat
Photo Credit: Bain News Service / Heritage Art / Heritage Images / Getty Images
Alongside these practical aspects, there are different theories regarding the 13-button pants. One theory proposes that the flared bottoms were designed to give US Navy sailors a distinctive appearance. Furthermore, since zippers were not widely used then, the buttons served to fasten the crotch area, referred to as the “broadfall.”

Why do the pants worn by US Navy sailors have 13 buttons?

Portrait of a US Navy sailor wearing 13-button pants
Photo Credit: Underwood Archives / Getty Images

As aforementioned, the broadfall section of the pants is secured by exactly 13 buttons, which are often thought to symbolize America’s original 13 colonies. However, this is generally regarded as a sailor’s myth.

Initially, the broadfall had 15 buttons, but this number was reduced to seven to conserve material. Sailors soon complained that the section was too small, partly due to weight gain from dietary changes and the discomfort it caused to their “equipment.” In response, the US Navy enlarged the broadfall. This required additional material, and six more buttons were added, resulting in the 13 buttons seen today. This number was likely chosen for visual symmetry.

What about other pieces of uniform?

Three US Navy sailors lying in the grass with a group of women standing in the background
Photo Credit: Jim Heimann Collection / Getty Images

Other parts of the US uniform had several uses. The neckerchief functioned as both a headband and a cleaning cloth, also helping to keep the uniforms neat. In the 19th century, sailors often had long hair, which they secured in ponytails with a sticky tar-like substance to avoid distraction during work. The neckerchief was essential in keeping their hair from interfering with their clothing.

Honoring Horatio Nelson?

Military portrait of Horatio Nelson
Photo Credit: Bettmann / Getty Images

Like the “13 buttons, 13 colonies” explanation for the bellbottom pants, the neckerchief also has an alternative and unlikely origin. Allegedly, the fabric is a symbol to honor Horatio Nelson, with the three white lines representing his three major victories.

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Today, this style of uniform is for dress purposes, rather than actual work, and these unique features were retained to maintain traditions.

Jesse Beckett

Jesse Beckett is one of the authors writing for WAR HISTORY ONLINE